Friday, September 7, 2007

Stage 5 - Athlone - Dublin - 26 August

It's the last day of racing and we're 80 kilometers or so from the start in Athlone, the geographic center of Ireland.

After another Irish breakfast of cereals, eggs, bacon, sausage, juice, fruit, breads and rolls, we jumped on our bikes and headed off. This was not the scenic ride we'd had back on Thursday when we detoured to the southern Irish coast. This was hard, straight and fast on the motorway directly to Athlone.

In spite of this direct route two things amused. At one point the N6 changed into a local section and there were two Garda with radar, just as we slowed to the legal 100 kph. Our speed was so precise that we saw the Garda laughing as we passed. Stephen told me he'd seen a motorist flash his headlights a few moments before we hit the radar trap.

The other was as we approached Athlone, I spied a sheep just standing in the middle of the right lane. I was very glad that we were driving on the left. The sheep was much better behaved than the deer I hit last November that totaled my Suzuki V-Strom 650 and broke both bones in my lower right leg.

The start area in Athlone was as scenic as it gets. Here we looked across the River Shannon at Moydrum Castle and St. Peter and Paul's Church.

And now the view is despoiled by Stephen, Pat, Dennis and your's truly.
Courtesy of Andy Jones (andyATjonesphoto1.freeserve.co.uk)

The Depart in Athlone.

The fans begin to arrive at the Start Line.

The River Shannon is beautiful whether you're looking up the river or down.

The Irish motor officials wear different garb than we do in the states. Here is Micky Robb with a Hi-Vis vest with "Commissaire" scribed on the back.

One last look at the excellent Garda motors.

Even the castles have turned commercial. The Tyrrellpass Castle offers Sirloin Steak or Chicken Kiev as moto official, Paul Watson, drives by with a different color Hi-Vis vest also with "Commissaire" lettered on the back.
This is interesting to US based motor officials as a discussion has recently been raised that we should change from the black and white jerseys we wear to something more recognizable to Europeans racing in the US. Clearly, there is no single uniform in Ireland yet the riders know who's in charge. I guess I like our stripes!

With all my pix I have very few of the moto marshals. They were always at security locations while we were heading further up the road looking for a scenic location. I took this one as this marshal passed us on the way catch to the field.

Here the break heads to the Sprint line in Kinnegad.


A little further up the road we stopped in Lucan and waited for the race to catch us. I was bit surprised to see how much more commercial the route was becoming as we approached Dublin.


We'll it's over and an exciting finish it was. We led the three leaders, David O'Loughlin (Navigators), Marco Marcato (L.P.R.) and Thomas Berkhout (Rabobank) into the closing circuit and then exited the circuit at the deviation. By the time I parked the bike, let Stephen off, and got impressed into service keeping the deviation lane open, the race was over and I missed it. Just like at home when all too often we find who won when we get online that night.
At least here I was able to see the Champions of the 2007 Tour of Ireland on the podium.

Later I followed Kevin to Paul Hicks' garage near where I'd picked up the BMW. Paul was going to get them back to BMW on Monday. After warm farewells to everyone, I got on the back of Kevin's bike and we headed to the hotel at the airport . We rode along the Dublin Harbor. The tide was out.

My last pic was of Pat Shaughancy as we waited at a red light.

After we got to the hotel, there were money issues to be settled with the race finance officer and more farewells and remembrances of the week.

David, Darach, Hunter, Nikki, Heath, Kristin and Ash showed up and we were back together for the 1st time since Tuesday. With our different jobs we were based in different hotels and had different schedules. After dinner, we headed to O'Donoghue's for some Sunday night traditional Irish music but luck was not with us. No music this night. So up the street to Nesbitt's with it's picture of Premier Gorbachev enjoying a Guinness at the bar. And it was locked though, thankfully, a small crowd of McQuaids were inside and let us in for a last Jameson's. Then off to The Siene Cafe where the week was catching up with me. I met more McQuaids. It was almost as much fun as meeting all the Balabans. I had met the family matriarch on Wednesday night in Cork. After introducing myself to Mrs. McQuaid I noted that "my mother had more children than she." She looked surprised and asked how many. "Thirteen." The McQuaids are ten. We both laughed as only people from big families can.

My night was over. David and I headed back to the hotel. In the morning we had breakfast and said good-bye. I was on a 10:30 to JFK and he was leaving on Thursday after he and his partners debriefed the race.

I'm sure there are things to be improved but they have much to be proud of. The first Tour of Ireland had been a complete success.

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

Stage 4 - Galway - Galway - 25 August

Today is the big day, the Queen's Stage. 232 Kilometers or 142 miles for we Americans. Three sprints and five KOMs. The lads will be ready to sleep tonight. Since we're starting and finishing in Galway, the hotels with massages, food and beds won't be far away.
Here's our start in Galway's Eyre Square. Two of the Tour's more important VIPs arrive, Pat McQuaid, the head of the UCI, the governing body for international cycling and Sean Petty, the Chief Operating Officer of USA Cycling. Pat is Darach's eldest brother and was the co-organizer, with Alan Rushton, of this race's predecessor, the Nissan Classic which was last run in 1992. Sean is another American working this Tour as the driver of Guest Car 2. Why does the picture you want most come out blurry? Pat McQuaid and Sean Kelly together and I screw it up. The lady in the foreground is Darach and Pat's sister, Ann. And what would a day at the Tour of Ireland be without Chief Marshal, Martin O'Reilly, holding court with his pasty white leg glaring so brightly I almost overexposed this one. And on what fine point of cycling security was he educating Pat Dowd, our blackboard driver? Way back in Dublin on Monday those who have been reading this blog carefully may remember I mentioned a motorcyclist who had asked me for directions. Well the world gets smaller and smaller. The marshal kissing the lady who I suspect is not his wife is Martin Kelly, the same rider who asked me for directions. "Of all the gin houses in all the world . . ." An American flag flying in Ireland? In the town of Cong? Surely there is a story here. Here a hint. (Click the Pic for a larger version) And if this isn't enough you're not a John Wayne or Maureen O'Hara fan. I'm not sure the riders much care or, at least, have the time to care. The weather has turned a bit as the field begins the first KOM at Finny. And up the Cat 1 climb to the KOM at Tourmakeady. This was a tough one as you can see if you browse over to Graham Watson's site. Three riders, including the KOM jersey, crashed on the descent because there was wet grass in the middle of the very narrow road. Stephen and I took our time going down the mountain, not that we had much of a choice. Rain doesn't stop a bike race and, in Ireland, it doesn't stop the fans either, at least not in Louisburgh. Kevin decided it was time for a picture of your scribe on his steed. You can imagine what we looked like with young Stephen on the back as well. I don't have the luxury of shooting where and when I want so I missed the bridge at Leenane. This very old bridge was washed away in late July or early August in the heavy rains that ended just as the Tour started. The organizers were in a major tizzy since a detour would have meant another 50 kilometers or more. It was not an issue. Within ten days a temporary metal plate bridge had been installed. The race moved across it carefully and safely. This is the KOM on the hill outside of Leenane. The master, Graham Watson, at work. This was one of the few times we stopped at the same place. While we and the other photographers, buzzed around looking for the right place, Graham and his driver would meander, sometimes in front of and other times behind, the race looking for, and finding, the perfect shot. If you have not visited his site to see his pictures you've missed the best Tour of Ireland pictures available. Click here to see them. This is American, Danny Pate, with a two minute lead on the bunch on the last KOM of the day, about 25 kilometers from the finish. Danny always gives the fans a thrill with his power and competitive spirit. Sadly, this move was made too soon and he and his companion were caught about five km from the finish. The finish line was crowded. The fans got a thrill and I missed the leaders again but here comes the second group. This grueling day of racing was over. For the racers it was the masseur, food and bed. For the Garda, the marshals and the press pilots, it was Saturday, a night for craic (look it up, I had to) in Galway.

After a fine dinner at the Menlo Park Hotel, Kevin, Dennis and I joined the rest of the guys at the Front Door Pub in the Keys area of Galway. Martin was holding court as usual and Paul his driver was watching his back so I couldn't even 'accidentally' spill a bit of Guinness on him. Lorraine, our woman photographer, must have had too much to drink because she asked an embarrassing question about why guys couldn't just talk to girls without expecting more than conversation. Kevin and I just looked at each other. Like she really had to ask?

After a bit of talking with everyone, Kevin paid me the highest compliment. He said (and I paraphrase) "You know, Tom, when we heard there was going to be a fu**ing American on the crew we figured we'd test you by giving you the smallest bike, and the largest, least experienced rider. With that, Irish roads and driving on the left we figured you'd screw things up pretty quick. But you just slid in, didn't complain a bit and did your job. We're proud to have you with us." I was proud to be one of them too.


It was time to leave. Dennis was ready and we went back to the Menlo Park where he posed for some pictures with some ladies from the wedding reception going on. Then we went to the bar and drank some Jameson's while he told me how he ended up in Williamsport in 1988 (he was sick of New York City and threw a dart at a wall map) and about his tour in the US Marine Corps in Special Ops. I would not want Dennis as an enemy.

We headed to our rooms about midnight. One more day of racing and one more night of Irish hospitality before the long ride home.

Stage 3 - Tralee - Ennis - 24 August

Sorry for the delay in continuing this tale but I was without internet for three nights in Ireland and I refused to waste my last night there in front of a laptop. Then I got home to family and work for two days and then off to motor officiate the Green Mountain Stage Race near Burlington, VT. Now that I'm home for a few days I'll try to get the rest of the story done.

Friday was a quiet stage from Tralee to Ennis. The course took us north along the west coast of Ireland to the River Shannon (gorgeous) and through Limerick and on to Ennis. After the climbing of Stage 2, and with the Queen's Stage coming on Saturday the riders appreciated this modest but lovely ride through Counties Kerry, Limerick and Clare.

Here we have the President Commissaire, Germano Casarotti, and the voice of Radio Tour, Marc Bollen, two consummate professionals. Signor Casarotti is the finest European UCI official I have come across keeping a firm but gentle hand on the race. Marc moved fluently across English, French, Italian and Spanish keeping all who were fortunate enough to have a radio on his frequency completely informed about the status of the race.


Darach McQuaid was enjoying his chat with the Irish National Champion, David O'Laughlin.


As we left Tralee the bunch rode neutral past this windmill which was decorated on the seaward side with race jerseys. My good friend, Chief Marshal, Martin O'Reilly, told the Garda officer at the bridge some profane tale about why I should be detained. But it didn't work, the officer just smiled and waved me back into the race after Stephen had taken his shots.


There was a good crowd as the field raced through Ballybunion. You can just see a part of the only known statue of Bill Clinton to the left of the blue building.


And another crowd at Tarbert for the sprint.


Here are the leaders heading toward the sprint in Foynes.


After 90 kilometers it was time for lunch in the feed zone near the Barrigone Quarry outside of Foynes.


Limerick was completely shut down for about ten minutes as the leaders went through and then the bunch. We were delayed getting out as I was interviewed by a pretty reporter from the Limerick Leader newspaper. Read all about it.



We came across this lovely church in Killaloe and the digital camera fired a bit late for a perfect shot. In trying to identify the location, I found a lot of shots of the front of the church but none from this side. So enjoy. This is special.


On Cahir Mountain at the KOM we found this poignant memorial.


All along the route we found cycling fans awaiting the race like this group in Tully.

This was a classic professional stage race finish. The six leaders were caught by the peleton about three kilometers from the finish and none who had worked so hard for so long finished in a podium position. There was a good crowd to appreciate the 45 kph finish speed but I have no picture. Another person put his camera and elbow right in front of me and that's all I had to show for it.

After everything settled down Kevin, his photographer (also Stephen) and I headed out of town to Galway where we were to spend two nights. Kevin was asking for directions when I rode up to tell him I had the route in my GPS. He seemed surprised that the Yank would have this info available but he fell in behind me and off we went. At the first roundabout the GPS pointed straight but I misread the traffic sign and took us off course to the left. I forgot the first rule of sailing and flying, always trust your instruments.

Now that all confidence in my navigation tools had been lost, Kevin led us out of Ennis. As we headed north on the Galway Road, I experienced more Irish lane splitting. What a joy to see the cars just move to the outside and leave a more than adequate space in the center for the motorbikes.

Somewhere near Gort we stopped for fuel. While we were topping up, the Garda motors came by pushing all the backed-up traffic off to the side. Many of the team cars and staff vehicles were following. I'm not sure the locals appreciated this preferential treatment but our fellow tourers surely did.

Before leaving the gas station Kevin asked if my GPS had sorted itself out. I assured him it had. It led us directly to the hotel without a misstep. My Garmin had redeemed itself as we pulled into the hotel parking lot.

Stage 3 and the transfer to Galway were over. As much as I was enjoying Stephen's company and good humor I did enjoy wringing out the BMW on the transfer alone. I was becoming very impressed with my mount.

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Stage 2 - Clonakilty - Kilarney - 23 August

Thursday started with a question, "would you like to join us on the scenic route?" Of course I would.

We left Cork on the direct route to Clonakilty but soon took a turn toward the south coast of Ireland. The roads are very different from back home, rarely maintaining the same surface, width or camber in the curves for more that a few miles. On the short detour of about 20 miles mile we encountered at least six or seven different road surfaces on the same route.

Here I am with the headlands in the background. Dennis, of whom I'll speak more shortly, gave us a history lesson which included the fact that the Lusitania sank just off that headland.


And this is Stephen McCarthy, my young photographer, who was unsteady in yesterday's race. If you put 240 lbs. on the back of a small motorcycle it really can be the tail wagging the dog. Amazingly after he got back on after this stop he and I gelled and started riding as a team. We still could not go as fast as the rest who were on bigger bikes with smaller riders but we deported ourselves well.

Here we have Dennis (mentioned above). Dennis was the second person on the crew that I met back in the parking lot in Kilkenny. When we met, after short introductory comments, he asked "what part of the states are you from?"
I replied "Pennsylvania."

And he said, "Ah, yeh, I lived in Williamsport before I joined the Marines."

What are the odds that you'll travel to a foreign country and the second person you'll meet is from the small city where you live? It turns out that Dennis used to drink at the Shamrock, a small bar a five minute walk from my home.


The Irish Garda nicely placed in front of the Church in Clonakilty.


The start line in Clonakilty.


This is Kevin who, with Steve, John, Pat and Dennis, have worked hard to make sure I don't make too many mistakes.


And here are the aforementioned Steve and Dennis.


And the Lord Mayor of Clonakilty with Alan Rushton, the Event Director.


The fellow with the hat is Brian, our TV producer and one very cool guy. He rode into the hotel in Cork on the back of a motorcycle.


The grand church in Clonakilty.


A typical Irish backroad, single-track with a 50 mph speed limit for those metrically challenged and you'd have to be more than metrically challenged to ride that road at 50.


Here comes the bunch into Skibbereen.


Looking back down from the road from the first King of the Mountain hot spot on today's stage at Glenlough.


Here's the bunch chasing the leaders near the Sprint hot spot in Glengariff.


The hard but sunny face of Ireland at the second KOM at Derreenacarrin.

This is the descent from Healy Pass.


But before you go down you must climb up.


No fun for this bunch but some one has to do it.


And here comes the winner of this KOM, Kristan House of Navigators.


Looking across the bay at Kenmare.


And the last KOM of the day at Moll's Pass.


And here they come through the finish in Kilarney.


That's my friend, co-race organizer and the guy who made it possible for me to be here, David Kalman of Shadetree Sports.


And to think, if I didn't have the motor press job I might have been chaperoning these two ladies. It's better this way.


Our hotel tonight is the Malton, about 50 meters from the Finish Line. We had a great dinner in their fine restaurant. While dining I noted that the race officials were dining at the same time. This is almost unheard of in my experience. Usually we're still trying to generate credible results while dinner is going on. More than once I've missed dinner while working on results.

At breakfast I met Seamus Shortall and his assistant Ger Madden. These are the men responsible for getting these results out. Most nights they had the results in the hands of the teams before we left the finish area ... phenomenal performance! When we met Seamus said "Oh, you're Tom Balaban. I found your blog." He was kind enough not to tell me what he thought of it.